Are Japanese Chefs Losing Ground in the U.S.?

In the U.S. sushi industry today, Japanese chefs are increasingly being pushed to the margins.

Led by Koreans, followed by Chinese, Taiwanese, Thai, and Vietnamese chefs—and even Mongolian chefs—the industry has become highly competitive. More recently, chefs from Myanmar have also been working hard and making their presence felt, particularly in rural areas.

Among them, Mongolian chefs deserve special mention. Their manual dexterity rivals that of Japanese chefs. They can grasp the technique of making dashimaki tamago in just two or three attempts, and their speed and efficiency at work are remarkable.

In the past, the idea that “only Japanese chefs possess these specialized skills” was enough to qualify for permanent residency. Today, however, that path has become much more difficult.

With the recent boom in omakase dining, there was hope that Japanese chefs would regain their footing. Instead, many have found themselves outpaced by Korean chefs. Because they are willing to work for lower wages, restaurant owners often choose to hire them—competent substitutes for Japanese chefs. From a business standpoint, this decision is understandable, and perhaps even correct.

Still, when it comes to breaking down a fish with elegance and precision, the true masters remain Japanese craftsmen.

Training and cultivating people is not something that can be achieved in a day or two. That long, patient process is where the real value lies.